Pearl/ Ásfríðr ([info]pearl) wrote,
@ 2009-04-07 10:07:00
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Entry tags:kumihimo, macrame, maedup, string

Maedup, Dahoe and Kkunmok
Hopefully if I post the links in my livejournal to look at them later, I won't be so distracted and instead will read papers.

Just on a whim, I realised that I hadn't really looked at kumihimo (because I need another way of making string, naturally) and started reading that it had been introduced from Korea. Darn it. What we all need is another thing that I can trace back to Korea and obsessively read about! ;)

Apparently, it first arrived in Japan called Shiragigumi (I'm assuming Shira = Silla), later to become Koraiuchi.

In Korean, the cords are called Dahoe or Kkunmok,and the decorative knotting the cords are used for is Maedup (sometimes called 'Korean macrame.')

The Korea Maedup Institute has some information in English about the history of decorative cords.Their redesigned website (also here doesn't seem to have much information yet, but the old site as a little on dahoe, and maedup and here. (Instructions about the various knots used in maedup are in Korean but here. The Maedup Shop, has knotting tutorials, too.

There are better photos, of actual knotwork, in books I had photocopied (because I knew even if I wasn't interested then, I would be at some point...) but website links are easier to blog about. :)

Unless textile experts really start looking at kumihimo and dahoe braids, I'm not so sure about the modern equipment used. The basic four-strand braid looks like an inverted version of whipcord braiding. this website implies that kumihimo originally was fingerloop braiding. And her more modern page makes this even more obvious. But if it is more akin to whipcording in more than four strands (and it always seems to be multiples of four) then having a stand to rest the bobbins on would be useful, especially if it was a one-person job. Hmmmm.


I can't read Italian, but this rather big PDF looks really interesting.




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[info]basal_surge
2009-04-07 01:04 am UTC (link)
In other news, mostly tangential, we have a newbie at the local college here interested in doing chinese 13th-14th century male garb. Would you have any ideas on where to point me to find some english language sites that have clothing info? Closest I have is some Mongolian stuff, but it's a bit dated anyway.

(Reply to this) (Thread)


[info]pearl
2009-04-07 01:48 am UTC (link)
There's a book! I swear! And it's beautifully illustrated and in English...
(Illustrations look like this one, alongside photos of the actual extant textiles.)

Aha!

5000 Years of Chinese Costumes is a fairly common book in libraries, that's also really really good.

I might have some photocopies (somewhere!) of books that are written in Chinese, but I only remember photocopying the sections that compared Chinese and Korean dress, so it wouldn't be helpful. It depends how good his reading comprehension of Chinese is, and if he knew simplified or traditional.

He'd be looking at late Song, early Yuan, right? That might be why you're getting Mongolian stuff, since that's when Empire of the Great Khan encompassed China.

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[info]holyschist
2009-04-07 02:18 am UTC (link)
Yeah, Han Chinese didn't all wear Mongolian-style clothing under the Yuan, but it's a lot harder to find out what they did wear. 5000 Years suggests that they more or less wore what they did during the Song, but with the left-over-right crossover and different colors, but while it's a nice overview and has some good pictures of extant garments, it's not always clear to me where some of the assertions are coming from (and the Yuan section is really weak--that might just be because the Mongols were "barbarians," but it makes me a little nervous about the rest of the book).

Chances are that if the man is involved in the government or court, he'd be wearing Mongol-style clothing--a long, straight-collared left-over-right robe (actually, probably at least two of these) over trousers.

I don't know much about Southern Song clothing.

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[info]holyschist
2009-04-07 02:24 am UTC (link)
I don't think she is suggesting that kute-uchi evolved into kumihimo, just that both methods of braiding were used, kute-uchi is older, and some of the braids are the same (or look the same but are structurally different).

I think kumihimo is more like whipcording, personally, but I've only played with it a little (with the foam cards, since I don't have a stand with weights).

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[info]pearl
2009-04-08 02:39 am UTC (link)
I don't think she is suggesting that kute-uchi evolved into kumihimo, just that both methods of braiding were used, kute-uchi is older, and some of the braids are the same (or look the same but are structurally different).

The impression I had, was that kute-unchi and kumihimo may have both been called kumihimo?

But none of answers the question of when the marudai stand was invented, or when each particular word meant *what*! :(

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[info]holyschist
2009-04-08 02:45 am UTC (link)
I don't think so, but I may not have read closely enough.

Can't answer the question about marudai, but I think it would be fairly hard to get good tension without something similar (the only reason the modern cards work is because the slits grip the thread, allowing you to tension by hand without weights).

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[info]gargoyal3
2009-04-07 04:37 am UTC (link)
The 4 strand kumihimo IS like upside-down bobbin-braiding, HUH....

I've also done 6 strand kumihimo, I think? And you can do lots of patterns. But it is pretty slow, at least for me ;)

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[info]baronsnorri
2009-04-07 07:27 am UTC (link)
Pearl--you are!! : )

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[info]hometime
2009-04-13 08:40 am UTC (link)
Hey, I just started doing kumihimo today (in the car, on the way home from festival). It is pretty easy! Or at least the first two patterns I tried were, even with all instructions in japanese... let me know if you need any bits done for your midwinter outfit.

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